Mold Flaws

Mold Flaws

Not to be confused with Flops and Superflops, a mold flaw is a flaw that is present in the mold used to make the toy. This results in the same flaw being present in every single pour from that mold, and thus does not warrant a discount as it is disclosed and expected. 

Flaws with the master model itself will also be put under the umbrella of "mold flaw." For example, our Fat Little Horse model has a paintbrush fiber embedded in its butt, under the spray paint. Because of this, the molds and subsequent toys poured from it all have a small ridge in that spot on the rump.

If a toy gets an updated mold or master in which the mold flaw is no longer present, any remaining stock with the original mold flaw will be discounted as though it were a flop.

Previously completed orders for toys that have since had a flawed mold updated that were purchased at full price will not be eligible for a partial refund. This is because the buyer knowingly made the decision to purchase the toy with the mold flaw as disclosed in the original listing at the original agreed upon price. Thank you for your understanding.


Mold flaws can be flaws such as:

  • Seams are a result of a 2-part or a partially split mold. This technique is necessary when it isn't possible to remove a toy from its mold due to its shape/dimensions. They result in a hairline of "flashing" where tiny amounts of silicone seep into the gaps in the mold when poured.
    Some people can feel them during use, while others do not notice. Everyone's body and sensitivity is unique, so your experience with seams in toys may differ from that of someone else.
    These seams are also present in the opening of most penetrables. This is because the internal rod that created the cavity is a rigid 3d printed rod that is held in place during pours, and removed afterwards.
  • Bubbles in the mold would result in a bump on the toy. Sometimes the bubble is under the surface of the mold and results in a smoother, more subtle bump.
  • Nicks/tears in the mold, similarly to bubbles, would result in either a bump in the final toy if it is wide, or more of a hairline bump, much like a seam, if the nick or tear is thin.
  • Warping can be a result of either silicone oils slowly leeching into the mold, causing it to expand, or the way that a mold sits in its mold shell. All silicone molds expand over time, which can change the size/shape of toys poured from older molds.
    Thin parts, such as the part of the mold which fills the space between the body and legs of Sexapeel can become rippled instead of straight as the mold expands. Fullsize Eglok also has some warping, as his mold shell is large and finicky, and the toy itself is so large. This causes the silicone to weigh down on the bottom of the mold, which squishes under the weight, resulting in slightly flatter sections under the thighs.
  • Cracks or embeds on the master model will cause those same cracks or bumps, picked up by the mold, to appear on the toys poured in it. Cracks are more common with models hand sculpted such as with clay, or could be a result of a master model being broken and repaired. Dust or Debris could make their way onto a master model and get trapped under a later of spray paint or gloss.
  • Printer texture (also sometimes referred to as "print lines") is the small, fine horizontal lines that appear on 3D printed models.
    As a lot of shops 3D print their models, printer texture is a fairly common mold flaw. Some shops only partially smooth print texture to save time on production, while other shops may simply miss some. This is especially true in places on the master model that are hard to reach to properly smooth out, such as tight crevices or high-texture areas.
    Some people can feel them during use, while others do not notice. Everyone's body and sensitivity is unique, so your experience with printer texture in toys may differ from that of someone else.
  • Inconsistent surface textures is much less common and can be caused by the finish on a master model being inconsistent. Sometimes spray paint doesn't apply uniformly, a part of the toy is not sandpapered as much as another, or gloss applied with a brush leaves paintbrush texture in some spots but not others and this can end up with slightly inconsistent textures on a toy.

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